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BIBA
272 Boylston St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-7878
Over $40
Contemporary
Arguably Boston's best restaurant, and surely one of the most original and high-casual restaurants in America, Biba is a place to see and be seen, from the vividness of the dining room's rambling mural to the huge street-level people-watching windows of the downstairs bar. The menu emphasizes inventive combinations, unusual cuts and produce, haute comfort food, and big postmodern desserts. Take your time, and don't settle for the "classic lobster pizza" if something like vanilla chicken with chestnut puree is available. The wine list is an adventure. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.
120 Ave. of the Arts, Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/425-3240
$25 to $40
European, French
This little place, run by Alsatian chef Jean Joho, toast of Chicago, hums busily from its classy breakfast through post-symphony snacks (it's open 'til 1 AM) in a setting evoking '40s Paris. "Brasserie" originally meant brewery-this one is bigger, louder, and more versatile than a bistro. Still, it perfectly carries off classic bistro food like hanger steak and onion soup gratinée as well as beer-friendly Alsatian food such as choucroûte à l'Alsacienne (sausages, a cured pork chop, and a pork quenelle, all on a bed of sauerkraut). Serious martinis are on hand, too. AE, D, DC, MC, V.
50-52 Beach St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/292-5166
$15 to $25
Asian, Chinese, East Asian
Chiu Chow (or Chaozhou in China) is the word for people from Shantou (formerly Swatow). They and their wonderful seafood cuisine migrated all over Southeast Asia and around the world, introducing other cultures to clams in black bean sauce, steamed sea bass, gray sole with fried fins, or any dish with their famous ginger sauce. Chau Chow has expanded to a larger storefront called Grand Chau Chow, right across the street, which has live-fish tanks, accepts credit cards, and looks a little nicer on the outside (41-45 Beach St., tel. 617/426-6266, AE, D, MC, V). Your best bet is not to order from the menu per se but to look around at what others are eating and order that way. It's not as rude as it sounds. No credit cards.
323 Hanover St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/523-8567
$15 to $25
Seafood
Shoulder-crowding small, this storefront restaurant specializes in calamari dishes, black squid-ink fettuccine, and linguine with clam sauce. You've just got to love this place-for the noise, the intimacy, and, above all, the food. There's something about a big skillet of linguine and calamari that would seem less perfect if served on fine white china. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards.
122-126 Harvard Ave., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/782-8868
$15 to $25
Asian, Chinese, East Asian
Despite the silly name, this is an outstanding restaurant, the first outside Chinatown to feature live-tank seafood, and one of the few Chinese-Vietnamese restaurants whose menu is equally strong with both cuisines. Don't miss the daily tank seafood special, the stir-fried pea pod stems, or the sautéed chicken with lemongrass. AE, D, MC, V.
1271 Cambridge St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/491-6568
$25 to $40
Contemporary
Owner-chef-author Chris Schlesinger built his national reputation on grilled foods and red-hot condiments. The Jamaican jerk, the North Carolina pulled pork, and the habañero-laced "pasta from Hell" are still here, but this restaurant has made an extraordinary play to establish itself in the front ranks of fish restaurants. Spices and condiments are more restrained, and Schlesinger has compiled a wine list bold and flavorful enough to share a table with the highly spiced food. The dining space is completely informal-this is surely the best restaurant in America that also has a motorized wiggling fish as a bathroom joke. Brunch is served on Sunday. AE, D, MC, V. No lunch.
2067 Massachusetts Ave., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/492-6900
$25 to $40
European, French, Cambodian
The first manifestation of the popular Cambodian-French restaurant moved to larger quarters near Porter Square in 1998 without skipping a bicultural beat. The chef, Langtaine de Monteiro, learned to manage a Cambodian kitchen as the wife of a diplomat and for a time ran a restaurant in Provence. The common element is garlic, from a French appetizer like moules (mussels) swimming in garlic butter to superb Cambodian spring rolls, delicate salads, and a red curry of surpassingly fresh flavor. Lately the French dishes have been leaning toward contemporary flavors, such as grilled red snapper with lemongrass sauce and an Asian basil coulis. AE, D, DC, MC, V.
900 Beacon St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/247-1500
$25 to $40
European, French, Cambodian
Technically this Elephant Walk is in Boston, but psychologically it is the gateway to Brookline, carrying on the tradition of its home base in Cambridge, except it's aboveground, larger, and goes deeper into both modern French platters and what the menu calls "challenging tastes"-such as a dip made from Cambodian shrimp paste. Tease your palate with an exotic assortment of dumpling appetizers, spring rolls that you wrap in fresh lettuce leaves, and mouthwatering coq au vin. The airy atmosphere evokes a British Colonial hotel; the food reminds you of why Phnom Penh was "the Paris of Asia." The desserts, though, are pure Paris. AE, D, MC, V.
1002 Beacon St., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/566-9688
$25 to $40
Asian, East Asian, Japanese
The Chinatown branch (16 Hudson St., Boston, tel. 617/338-2261) is thought to have the most advanced sushi in town and serves until 3:30 AM on weekends, but the Brookline location is just as good and gains extra points for its selection of 15 brands of hot sake. Avant-sushi these days include hot spices, fried morsels, boozy marinades, and presentations with props like a martini glass. A quick anthology is the "Ginza Surprise," consisting of a daily assortment of chef's eccentricities, such as "caterpillar maki," with avocado scales. There are lots of good appetizers and hot dinners as well, including teriyaki, tempura, and nabemono (one-pot meal). AE, DC, MC, V.
1 N. Beacon St., Allston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/254-8883
$15 to $25
Asian, Chinese, East Asian
Completely vegan versions of Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine work best when not dependent on the fake shrimp, pork, beef, chicken, or squid. Despite piling on all five kinds of wheat gluten, the taro nest stands out (it has plenty of veggies), as do any of the noodle dishes and the jasmine rice. D, MC, V.
280 Green St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/876-1655
$25 to $40
Contemporary
The tables are small, the room is very plain, the service is casual, and the bar next door mixes Bohemians with just-plain drunks, but Caribbean-born co-owner and chef John Levins is one of the living masters of mixing hot spices with other distinctive flavors. A recent example: "beaten & boiled conchmeat simmered in a Scotch bonnet chili pepper, lime & thyme, green plantain, green papaya, wild herb, rum sauce." But expect an entirely different-and elaborate-preparation with Caribbean grouper or Muscovy duck. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.
553 Tremont St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/423-2700
Over $40
Contemporary
Gordon Hamersley has earned a national reputation, thanks to such signature dishes as grilled mushroom-and-garlic sandwich, duck confit, or souffléed lemon custard. He's one of Boston's great chefs and likes to sport a Red Sox cap instead of a toque. His place has a full bar, a café area with 10 tables for walk-ins, and a larger dining room that's a little more formal and decorative than the bar and café, though nowhere near as stuffy as it looks. AE, D, DC, MC, V.
3294 Washington St., Jamaica Plain, MA, USA
Phone: 617/983-3701
$15 to $25
Soul
Right next to Doyle's, Jamaica Plain's great neighborhood bar, Jake's fills the food side of the equation with impressive Texas-style smoked meats and some North Carolina pulled pork that Kenton Jacobs picked up during a stint with the East Coast Grill. The brisket sandwich is perfection of its kind. DC, MC, V.
Hotel Meridien, 250 Franklin St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/451-1900
Over $40
European, French
Start with the handsomest dining room in the city-a soaring space that used to be the boardroom of the Federal Reserve Bank, with Renaissance Revival gilded cornices and limestone walls. Then serve some of the best French food in Boston, masterminded by French-trained chefs (currently Mark Zapienza and Alain Rayé). A ravioli appetizer is stuffed with frogs' legs and parsley puree, garnished with garlic cream; sautéed Maine lobster comes en casserole with white beans, candied tomato, and rosemary. Little wonder Julien has become a favorite with French business travelers and Boston Francophiles. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.
30 Gloucester St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/262-3023
Over $40
European, French
An elegantly modernized Victorian Back Bay town house is the setting for chef-owner Frank McClelland's intoxicating blend of new French and contemporary cuisine. Grilled New York foie gras is accompanied by quince anise cranberry compote; Périgord black truffles intensify the poached sole. You can simplify the opulent menu by choosing a prix-fixe tasting menu, such as the innovative vegetarian dégustation. With two fireplaces and subtle decor in truffle colors, the downstairs is among Boston's most romantic places-the front salon is known as the Courtship Room, the back parlor as the Seduction Room. Upstairs is the Library, which is more masculine and clubby. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.
97 Mount Vernon St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/720-5511
$25 to $40
Middle Eastern
This beautifully detailed and delicious fantasia upon Persian food and art focuses on the Azerbaijanian corner that is now Northwest Iran. Persian miniatures and medieval maps cover the walls. The food includes exotically flavored specialties, and dishes as familiar (but superb here) as eggplant puree, pilaf, kabobs, fesanjoon (the classic pomegranate-walnut sauce), and lamb stews. The staff obviously enjoys explaining the menu, and the wine list is well selected for foods that often defy wine matches. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.
142 Berkeley St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/424-6711
$25 to $40
Contemporary
A newcomer that's surprisingly quiet and posh for this area, this post-Ritz concept gravitates toward modestly innovative food. Apple-parsnip soup with fried carrots, hand-rolled potato gnocchi, and red snapper wrapped in lettuce have been hits, along with homey desserts like a "cookie jar" served with a glass of milk. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.
26 Park Sq, Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/426-4444
Over $40
Seafood
What began as a tiny restaurant upstairs over a Cambridge fish market has grown to important regional status, with locations in Chestnut Hill, Kendall Square in Cambridge (5 Cambridge Center, tel. 617/864-3400), and now Washington, D.C., and Baltimore. The hallmark, as always, is extra-fresh seafood. As the organization has matured, it has applied the same standards to the trimmings and the wine list. Once puritanically simple preparations have loosened up to include Chinese and French sauces, and wood-grilling is now the preparation of choice. Rhode Island clam chowder with tomatoes has been allowed onto the menu alongside the traditional Boston milk chowders. The smoked bluefish pâté is one of the finest appetizers anywhere. Dishes come to the table in whatever order they come out of the kitchen, as freshness is held to be more important than the order of courses. If you miss a flight at Logan Airport (Terminal C, tel. 617/569-4622), a Legal restaurant there can make it the most delicious missed flight of your life. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, DC, MC, V.
129 South St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/542-5108
$25 to $40
European, French
"Les zygomates" is the French expression for the muscles on the human face that make you smile-and this combination wine bar-bistro will certainly put them to work. Les Zygomates serves up classic French bistro fare that dares to be simple and simply delicious. The menu beautifully matches the ever-changing wine list, with all wines served by the two-ounce taste, six-ounce glass, or bottle. Most bottles are priced at retail or just a bit above. Les Zygomates offers prix-fixe menus at both lunch and dinner. Pan-roasted tuna with red pepper coulis and grilled steak au bordelaise with roasted eggplant and garlic typify the taste. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.
10 City Sq., Charlestown, MA, USA
Phone: 617/242-1999
Over $40
Mediterranean
The pacesetting bistro is named for an important Mediterranean flavor and for Olivia English, who runs the front of the house. Her husband, Todd English, minds the wood-fired brick oven and the spit-roasting in the kitchen, besides watching over fast-track new enterprises, including a new Olives in Las Vegas and a local line of gourmet pizzerias called Figs. But it was the original that set the local standards for grilled pizza, piled-on platters of delicious things, "vertical food," and such smart signature offerings as the appetizer "Olives tart" with marinated olives, goat cheese, caramelized onions, and anchovies. The crowded seating, noise, long lines, and abrupt service only add to the legend. Come early or late-or be prepared for an extended wait: reservations are taken only for groups of six or more at 5:30 or 8:30 PM, and there are few nearby alternatives. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.
319 Hanover St., Boston, MA, USA
Phone: 617/367-4348
$25 to $40
European, Italian
Because it's right next door to Daily Catch, crafty couples can beat the odds against a long wait by splitting up, with one person in line for seafood and the other in line here. This tiny gem of a trattoria is worth the wait, with excellent country Italian favorites such as white beans with various pastas, roasted vegetables, and a fine salad of field greens. Best choice could well be the clam and tomato stew with herbed flat bread-don't forget to enjoy it with a bottle of Vernaccia. They don't serve dessert, but it's easy to find great espresso and pastries in the cafés on Hanover Street. No credit cards.
851 Cambridge St., Cambridge, MA, USA
Phone: 617/547-2938
$25 to $40
Portuguese
The lively atmosphere here may make you feel as though you're attending a giant Portuguese wedding. Entire families come, and on a Friday or Saturday night (when they have guitarists and singers), it's not unusual to see little girls in frilly dresses and little boys in jackets and ties. Specialties include kale soup thickened with potatoes, mariscada a chefe (a great seafood combination in a casserole with fine spices), and shrimp Ana María (pan-fried shrimp in seafood stock). The bargain-priced wines on the list include some of the best Dão reds available anywhere outside Portugal. AE, D, DC, MC, V.
999 Beacon St., Brookline, MA, USA
Phone: 617/277-8272
$25 to $40
Spanish
Although Boston and Cambridge have fallen for Spanish tapas, this is the first tapas bar to fully capture the modern Spanish spirit of this bar food. At dinner you have a choice of about 30 tapas and a few entrées. Tapas might include grilled white asparagus, matrimonio (the wedding being between fresh white anchovies and the familiar brown cured ones), an all-Spanish cheese platter, and pollo en pepitoria (chicken legs with enough almond-garlic sauce to employ a lot of bread). The lunchtime paella is cleverly done; to keep the seafood from overcooking, they steam it separately. AE, DC, MC, V.
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